Title: Remains in the Suitcase
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Inspiration:
Hmong Jacket Artifacts:
My inspiration is the Hmong embroideried jackets made by the Hmong leng and White dialects, with the embroidery specific to where my mom's family is from, which is Long Cheng and Xieng Khouang. I wanted to incorporate their home and the symbolism of Hmong embroidery of Paj Ntaub Tawg Laug (cross stich) being home and where the Hmong had came from in her region. With the jacket, having embellishments to emphasize on the embroidery. In addition, they add beads to the back of the shirt, and near the embroidery to have the symbol of wealth in the Hmong jacket. However, I wanted to incorporate beads and coins into my jacket to showcase the rich culture of the Hmong and the journey they took to survive and thrive across a diaspora. Additionally, use the Hmong pattern that means home and what my family used to showcase my own home in the piece. |
Another inspiration was the men's jacket of Luang Namtha. Their jacket consists of embellishments and embroidery decorated along the collars and sleeves of the jacket. I want to showcase how the Hmong always had a home tied to their clothing, and tell the story of where one is from. With the fabric, more flashy to attract the attention to people to know, who are the Hmong, and why the story of the Hmong not having a place to call a home, is important to their own journey. With the colors in the piece inspired by the traditional jacket, to explain the Hmong, from the purple representing the Hmong hemp fabric (txoj phuam txoom suab) which is used to show who are the Hmong and tie them to their own spirits. In addition, Blue and a black tint to showcase that the Hmong were always free, and in the Hmong culture, meaning wanting peace from the heavens. Lastly, I wanted to put reds greens, yellows, and white to show where the Hmong had came from, from these colors used to showcase the different migration routes the Hmong had taken to get where they are.
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Planning:
Firstly, I sketched out four different drafts of how I wanted the shirt, the first two were inspired by the Hmong leng and Dawb outfit traditional outfits of having a hmong leng dab tsho (back collar) and embroidery trim that is specific to the Hmong Dawb. I also wanted to include the Hmong colors red, green, and yellow to symbolize the journey that the Hmong had taken, and how resilient they are to continue their culture. Moreover, include blue and white to symbolize wealth and traditional colors that the Hmong used to show their culture. In addition, purple to symbolize the traditional Hmong fabric that is used throughout ceremonies. However, I changed the design to be a more simplistic trim, and easier to wear than the traditional clothing pattern where the clothes were either crossed or buttoned up with embellishments. Lastly, I wanted to add embellishment to showcase the richness of the Hmong culture. Moreover, have paj ntaub to symbolize the history of the Hmong and how resilient they are to continue their culture.
Process:
Firstly, from the sketch I created a pattern. Using a basic shape for the body, of the length I wanted to be was 30 inches, having the shoulders at 7 inches, with a neckline of 20 inches around, width of the jacket to be 46 inches, and armpit length of 12 inches. Folding the paper in half, sketching out the one half of this design, and cutting it out. Then, I unfolded the paper and laid the paper onto of the fabric. Using a ruler to cut a straighter edge with a rotary blade to make the lines more sharp, so when sewing the edges would line up and the fabric won't fray apart. Doing this twice for each paper pattern I created for the back, front, and two arm pieces, and four times for the triangular edge. Cutting down the middle of the front panel to create the jacket's opening. Then sewing these panels together. |
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After finishing cutting I sewed the panels together to give a look as what the mock up would look like, and I reused the same pattern and cut out my main purple fabric to showcase the Hmong traditions and identity of Hmong. Repeating the same process as when I was creating the mock up to get sharp lines. Tweaking some of the edges to fit better, and create less waste when sewing on the fabric together. I Lastly, cut out a lining fabric to handle the heavier weight of the embroidery and beads to make sure that the fabric won't rip. Sewing the lining fabric together on the neckline with the front and back panels.
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I later worked on the sleeves, cutting off excess in the sleeves to put a blue cuff to symbolize the Hmong traditional colors which mean waiting for freedom and hope from the heavens. After sewing, I added the backing fabric to it so that it would be more conformable to wear from the fabric nylon and shiny to contrast from the heavily textured front panel and back. Sewing the good sides of the fabric facing another so when flipped the seams wouldn't show, doing this by sewing from the side diagonals, then flipping it over, and folding the cuff and sewing over it to give a cleaner edge to protect the fabric. Then pinning the fabric down and using an iron to create a crisper edge and finish so that the fabric won't bunch up when sewing it together.
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Afterwards, I cut out the last triangle panel, having the fabric be both the same so that when flipped the correct sides would show. Adding interfacing so that the weight of the beads and coins wouldn't affect the form as much. I also added a trip to finish the edges to give a cleaner look, and embellish it with yellow to symbolize where the Hmong came from which is the yellow river. Then, I sewed all the panels together, lining up the sleeves, triangle piece and arm hole, pinning it in place, and sewing the sleeves up. Furthermore, finishing the side, and sewing the panels together. I finished the opening part by sewing it down together then putting a blue bias tape for the fabric not to freight on the side. Moreover to emphasize how the Hmong always wished for hope form the heavens.
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Lastly, I added beads on the back panel and the triangle panel to symbolize the rich culture that the Hmong had, and how resilient the Hmong have been to showcase their own worth on their clothing. Then I did Hmong cross stitch with the home symbol to showcase where the Hmong had came from and use the colors traditional to showcase my own identity of were they came from which is the red, green, and yellow rivers. Adding pink bias tape to further emphasize the red, and added lace to emphasize on the embroidery. Finishing the jacket with buttons and putting a Hmong button string to keep it traditional showcase how the Hmong have been resilient to continue their tradition. |
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Expirmentation:
I firstly experimented on the embroidery, using a running stitch in the back of going from skipping one box to create an diagonal then coming back and skipping another box, in the back it looks as in a line. This was faster than the more common way of sewing Hmong cross stitch of the wrong side having it horizontal and vertical in a repeating pattern. Also, the width of the string, using two strings at first but the embroidery wasn't as visible, then doubling it to four strings and the designs were more visible to emphasize and contrast from the white background. Moreover to give texture from the smoother blank white color to the brighter reds and greens in the piece.
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Also, I experimented on the triangle piece. At first I used a pattern that was more circular which made it easier to sew, however the outcome wasn't as pointed as I wanted to add embellishments. Changing the tip and the curve, using scrap fabric to make a mock up of how the piece is going to look like. With my final product curved to give emphases on the money from the main panel in a square and extend the money off to showcase the wealth the Hmong have. Moreover, the richness in the culture of putting embellishments to showcase wealth in one's family and how the Hmong culture have been resilient and still continue the ways they practice even though going through many genocides.
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Reflection:
Overall, if I was to do this project again I would of used a smaller trim and a thicker weight nylon because the nylon wouldn't fold correctly when sewing down on it. Additionally, ironed more of my seams together from the product some of the fabric was bunched up in the wrong areas that was due to lack of ironing and gave off a rough texture. This was because I struggled with ironing with the sequin fabric because, whenever the heat was applied to the fabric it would remove the texture and color I wanted to emphasize of Hmong traditions and how the Hmong embellish their clothing to show their wealth from the inspiration. Moreover, to symbolize in my own piece I wanted to include the embellishments to showcase the richness of culture of keeping this tradition and how resilient the Hmong are. With the beads, I wish I went in with a pattern than sewing the beads in arrangement of color to emphasize more on the Hmong history and journey of the colors symbolizing the place the Hmong have lived and their tradition. I also wanted to include more of the embroidery to contrast more from the blank panels of the arms and cuffs. I enjoyed learning the traditional techniques the Hmong have used to create a jacket as well as modernizing it to make it easier to be worn and sewing the embellishments. I learned how to demonstrate different techniques to embellish a jackets and the appropriate methods from my own interpretation from the inspiration.
Compare & Contrast:
Differences:
- Hmong women's jacket artifact contains mainly black and whites to identify that one is Hmong and showcase what origin one comes from. Moreover, how the Hmong can pray to the heavens for guidance. This contrasts from Remains of a Suitcase where the main colors were purple to symbolize the Hmong traditions and how resilient the Hmong are, and white and blue to showcase the Hmong traditions. -In Remains of a Suitcase contains coins and beads to symbolize how rich in culture the Hmong are from being resilient to change, and the identity of Hmong. However, in the Hmong women's jacket artifact contains beads to symbolize wealth of the family, and embroidery to showcase a person's skillfulness of the interacted embroidery. - In the Hmong women's jacket artifact uses texture to contrast while Remains of a Suitcase uses contrast to emphasize on the History of the Hmong. - The meaning behind the embroidery contrasts. In the Hmong women's jacket the embroidery is use to mean longevity and identity of the Hmong Leng from the back collar embroidery. This differs from Remains of a Suitcase of the embroidery showcasing the Hmong history and where the Hmong had came from. |
Similarities:
- Hmong women's jacket artifact and Remains of a Suitcase both uses embroidery and embellishments to showcase the Hmong identity and to tell stories of who the Hmong are. - Both Remains of a Suitcase and Hmong women's jacket contains the colors, blue, green, yellow, and red to symbolize where a person comes from, and the history of the Hmong. Furthermore, explain where the Hmong had came form which is the yellow river, and showcase this story to others. - In Remains of a Suitcase and Hmong women's jacket uses Hmong symbols of embroidery and technique to explain one's identity and what one's origin is. Moreover, explain what the Have live through and the symbolism behind each shape. - In the Hmong women's jacket and Remains of a Suitcase uses lace and trim to emphasize on the embroidery, as well as to protect the embroidery from fraying apart for practical purposes. |
Act Questions:
1) Clearly explain and describe how you are able to identify the cause-effect relationships between your inspiration and its effect upon your artwork.
The cause effect relationship between my inspiration and it's effect on my artwork is the placing and use of colors to create symbolism and meaning behind geometric and traditional garments. Moreover, learn the appropriate techniques and recreate the same techniques through experimentation.
2) What is the overall approach (point of view) the author (from your research) has regarding the topic of your inspiration?
My overall approach regarding the author and topic of my inspiration is how color, texture, and contrast can add meaning to a piece. how symbolism can be use to give meaning within a piece to explain a story.
3) What kind of generalizations and conclusions have you discovered about people, ideas, cultures, etc. while you researched your inspiration?
Generalizations I've made was how the jackets were made from studying where the seams of the jacket was from analyzing where the stitching were, and interpreting how some pieces were created from the different layers. Additionally, where the specific jackets were from, due to the lack of knowledge of where each clothing is from without personal experiences or connection with a person in the Hmong community.
4) What was the central idea or theme around your inspirational research?
The central idea of my inspirational research was use of symbolism to give meaning into a piece of clothing, and explore how to create a story through symbolism and shapes.
5) What kind of inferences (conclusions reached on the basis of evidence and reasoning) did you make while reading your research?
Conclusions made while reading my research was that the Hmong people used these colors throughout the piece due to at least some containing them and stories explaining the meaning. Moreover, the process of how the clothing and where it originated from due to personal experiences and what trends were from the outfits mainly made during the 1980s.
The cause effect relationship between my inspiration and it's effect on my artwork is the placing and use of colors to create symbolism and meaning behind geometric and traditional garments. Moreover, learn the appropriate techniques and recreate the same techniques through experimentation.
2) What is the overall approach (point of view) the author (from your research) has regarding the topic of your inspiration?
My overall approach regarding the author and topic of my inspiration is how color, texture, and contrast can add meaning to a piece. how symbolism can be use to give meaning within a piece to explain a story.
3) What kind of generalizations and conclusions have you discovered about people, ideas, cultures, etc. while you researched your inspiration?
Generalizations I've made was how the jackets were made from studying where the seams of the jacket was from analyzing where the stitching were, and interpreting how some pieces were created from the different layers. Additionally, where the specific jackets were from, due to the lack of knowledge of where each clothing is from without personal experiences or connection with a person in the Hmong community.
4) What was the central idea or theme around your inspirational research?
The central idea of my inspirational research was use of symbolism to give meaning into a piece of clothing, and explore how to create a story through symbolism and shapes.
5) What kind of inferences (conclusions reached on the basis of evidence and reasoning) did you make while reading your research?
Conclusions made while reading my research was that the Hmong people used these colors throughout the piece due to at least some containing them and stories explaining the meaning. Moreover, the process of how the clothing and where it originated from due to personal experiences and what trends were from the outfits mainly made during the 1980s.
Bibliography:
Paj ntaub or story cloth. (n.d.). Retrieved March 12, 2021, from https://www.hmongembroidery.org/
Thao, Julie. Hmong Paj Ntaub and Clothing- YouTube. 15 Aug. 2015, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6DFRPkQ4y6Y.
Vang, Pang Ter. YouTube, YouTube, 2 Jan. 2021, https://www.youtube.com/?gl=ES.
Voreitter, Victoria. Hmong Threads of Life - Tribal Music Asia. Nov. 2016, https://www.tribalmusicasia.com/hmong-threads-of-life-article-nov-2016.pdf.
Thao, Julie. Hmong Paj Ntaub and Clothing- YouTube. 15 Aug. 2015, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6DFRPkQ4y6Y.
Vang, Pang Ter. YouTube, YouTube, 2 Jan. 2021, https://www.youtube.com/?gl=ES.
Voreitter, Victoria. Hmong Threads of Life - Tribal Music Asia. Nov. 2016, https://www.tribalmusicasia.com/hmong-threads-of-life-article-nov-2016.pdf.